Hart House, University of Toronto Sunday

1.

Hart House, University of Toronto
Sunday, November 3, 2013
5:00 – 9:00 PM
LECTURE 1:
THE HAN CHINESE CULTURAL RENAISSANCE
MOVEMENT OF THE 21 ST CENTURY:
THE SYSTEM OF OBJECTS
第一講
廿一世紀漢文化復興運動 :
物質的系統

2.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY…
在此鳴謝
And listeners like you. Thank you.
還有在座的各位。 感謝您們。

3.

HAS THIS HAPPENED TO YOU?

4.

ORIGINAL INTENT & MISSION
原意和目標
+ The dilemma of the Post-80’s:
Why is our China so distant?
八十後的困惑 : 為甚麼我們的中國這麼遙遠 ?
+ TV/ACG/media: On the
pursuit of “ancient eloquence”
電視 / 動漫遊 / 媒體 追尋“古代風雅”
+ Huaxia Renaissance Movement
Hanfu Movement
華夏復興運動 漢服運動
– Continuation of
Revolutionary-era thought
革命黨時代復漢思想延續

5.

A BLAST FROM THE PAST: 19001914
太陽之下無新事 , 革命先鋒百年行
+ 早在辛亥革命前就有人主張恢復古裝 仿效《水滸傳》、《七俠五
義》中的武生打扮 “頭頂高髻 內束緊身 外披圓領雙結寬綽長
袍。”認為這種裝束“既美觀瞻 又復靈便 不失尚武精神。 -《黃帝魂 : 論髮辮原由》 (1903)
“As early as during the Xinhai Revolution, there were those who
suggested the revival of ancient dress, imitating Tales of the Water
Margin,or martial outfits in 7 Heroes and 5 Gallants. With “high
topknots, tight-fitting inner clothes, and double-tied round-collared
long robes.” These were considered “aesethetic while convenient,
not forgetting of the martial spirit.”
– “On origins of the queue”, Spirit of Huang Di (1903)
+ Zhang Binglin attending Revolutionary
gathering in Ueno Park in self-made Shenyi
章太炎深衣出席上野公園革命聚會
– Claiming to be a “Remnant citizen”: 稱作“遺民”
+ But overall idea of ‘Han clothing’ as a complete
system still fuzzy, as imagined from fragments
‘ 漢服’作為服飾概念仍模糊 作為片段的集體回憶
+ Hanfu dismissed as potential Chinese ethnic
dress after 1914, downfall with Yuan Shikai
漢服隨袁世凱稱帝失敗而被摒棄

6.

A CENTURY OF TWISTS AND TURNS
百年輾轉
+ Hanfu relegated as “Confucian” and
+
+
+
+
+
“antiquarian” costume, academic garb
漢服成為“儒教” “復古”裝扮 ; 學士服
1920’s: ¾ length aesthetics: May Fourth movement
四分三長度的美學 五四運動與‘學生裝’
1930’s-40’s: China’s hot money period: Shanghai
& New York glam in Qipao;
avoidance with Japanese kimono
熱錢投機與都市虛華 上海與紐約風范的旗袍 ;
與日服避嫌
1940’s-60’s: Mao suit, Sun suit, and army suits
毛裝 中山裝 與軍裝
1960’s-70’s: The short-lived Jiang Qing dress
江青裙的曇華一現
1976-2001: Open Reforms, re-importing
Orientalism
改革開放 ‘神秘東方’ 灌入原生地

7.

COLLISION OF THOUGHT: “HANISM” ONLINE
思想大碰撞 “漢本位主義” 上‘網’ 上線
+ Jianchuan BBS (Later Sina Military Forum)
艦船 BBS ( 後 新浪軍事論壇 )
– Post-Tian’anmen: traditionalism as “national
salvation” method
89 民運後 : 傳統思想再現 :” 救國理論”
– Soft-power and nationalism
軟實力與民族主義
Simultaneous development of Chinese universalists
eg. Utopia BBS
同時大中華主義形成 : 例如 : 烏有之鄉 BBS
+ Hanwang 漢網 (haanen.cn)
+ A Lost Civilization: Han ethnic clothing (Huaxia Xuemai, Feb
14 2002)
[ 失落的文明 - 汉族民族服饰 ]
( 华夏血脉 著 2002)
– Wang Yuliang 王育良
(Xin’er Haogu 信而好古 )
– Wang Letian on the street 王樂天上街
(Zhuangzhi Lingyun 壯志凌雲 )

8.

SYSTEM OF OBJECTS?
物質的系統 ?
+ (Re)establish a modern vocabulary system to
classify all existing Hanfu designs
重新 建立一個分類所有已知漢服設計的現代詞彙系統
– The taxonomy is made common across all historical
periods.
一個歷代衣飾都通用的分類
+ To counter a previous dynastic view of Chinese
dress
去反駁以前對衣冠套用朝代觀的眼光去分類

9.

So what exactly is ‘hanfu,’ as a fashion system?
那麼 ‘漢服’作為一套服飾系統 到底該是怎樣的呢
LET US LOOK FROM THE
EYES OF THE ACTIVIST.
不如從復興者的角度看一看
吧。

10.

HANFU 漢服 :
THE (REAL) TRADITIONAL CHINESE
CLOTHING
Brought to you by:
Toronto Guqin Society
http://torguqin.wordpress.com

11.

HANFU?
Chinese identify themselves by
clothing, history as early as 7th
c. BCE
“Hanfu” first appeared in
Chinese history books in 1st c.
CE
Crossover design to the right,
tied with sashes
2D cutting: Easy to make, fits
various body shapes beautifully

12.

BUT WAIT, ISN’T THIS CHINESE…?
Yes, but of an ethnic minority called
Manchus
Manchu Empire (Qing) ruled China in
1644-1911, and forced all ethnicities to
wear their clothing; over 60 million died
in resistance, of which
at least 10 million were massacred
After 1911, some scholars in China tried
to bring back Hanfu, but majority of
society took Western clothing, thinking
that learning and doing Western things is
necessary to survive
In the 21st Century, Chinese people
searching for their own heritage feel that
they should be confident to start
wearing it again, and give Manchu
clothing back its rightful origins.

13.

DOESN’T HANFU LOOK KOREAN/JAPANESE?
It should look
similar!
China is the origin of
many aspects of
Japanese and Korean
culture
The similar clothing
designs only prove the
close ties between
each other!

14.

A QUICK PICTORIAL GUIDE
Yi 衣
Shang 裳
Ku 褲 / 絝
Pao 袍
Shenyi 深
衣
Shoufu 首
服
Zufu 足服
Xieyi 褻衣

15.

YI-SHANG 衣裳制 : TOP/SKIRT STYLE
For both men and women
The most formal design
“Morning ritual dress”
Top piece: cross-collared
Yi-Shang for women are called
Ru-qun 襦裙 (“Roo-chün”)
Ru can be further classified:
“Ao 襖” : thick, double-layered tops
“Shan 衫” : thin, unlined tops

16.

YI-KU 衣褲制 : TOP/TROUSER STYLE
For work, sport, or play!
Traditionally “commoner” clothing
called Shuhe 裋褐
“Middle” wear for longer robes,
called Zhongyi/ku 中衣 / 褲
Clothing for children!
Wear this for everyday life!

17.

SHEN-YI 深衣制 : THE “DEEP ROBE”
Most ritualized design, for
both men and women
Traditionally “Evening Dress”
Designed by sage king
Huang Di 黃帝 , over 4700
years ago, by sewing Yi and
Shang together into one robe
Clothing of
scholar-literatis
(This instrument is a guqin ->)

18.

MEANINGS OF THE SHENYI
Every part has a meaning!
4 pieces of fabric on Yi top: 4 seasons
12 pieces of fabric on Shang bottom:
12 months
Back seam goes top to bottom:
Rope measuring straightness, justice
Square collar and rounded sleeves: Round Heaven, Square Earth
Square-trimmed belt: Balance of power and justice
Sleeves go past the fingertip and back to elbow-length,
equal to bottom length when let straight down
Black collar:
Parents and grandparents alive
Navy collar :
Parents alive, grandparents deceased
White collar:
Parents and grandparents deceased
No collar: In Mourning

19.

PAO-FU 袍服 : LONG ROBES
Usually for men, but women wear it too!
The most creative type of Hanfu design
Round, crossed, or even square collars
Hidden knob buttons as well as sashes
Worn as outer coats, or on its own
May have long sleeves, or even no sleeves
Loosely defined as full-length cut, but
top/bottom cut designs exist as well
Despite its stately look, they are
casual or semi-formal clothing.

20.

EXAMPLES OF ROBES
Yuanling-Pao 圓領袍 /Panling-pao
盤領袍
“ Round collared robes”
Daopao 道袍 /Xingyi 行衣
“ Daoist Robe”, “Travel Robe”
He-cang 鶴氅 /Beifeng 披風
(“Heh-tsang”)
“Crane coat”, “Back-vest”
Beixin 褙心 / Bijia 比甲
“ Back and Heart Vest”,
“Parallel robe”
Yesa 曳撒
“ Jisun Robe”
(Mongol-inspired banquet robe)

21.

SHOUFU 首服 : HEADWEAR
4 main categories:
Guan 冠 : Formal, ritual hard coronets
Jin 巾 : Soft or hard gauze caps or
headscarves
Mao 帽 : Brimmed or pre-shaped hats
Zhan/Chai 簪釵 : Single or Duo-pronged
Hairpins

22.

ZHU-FU 足服 : FOOTWEAR
Generally cloth, wood and leather also used
Xie 鞋 : Shoes
Ji 屐 : Wooden sandals (raingear)
Xue 靴 : Boots
Mo 袜 : Socks
Boat shoes with upward toes
are worn with long Shang skirts
to prevent tripping over
Lü 履 : Single-layered boat shoes
Xi 舄 : Multi-layered boat shoes

23.

XIE-YI 褻衣 : UNDERWEAR
Zhongyi 中衣 must be worn under outside clothing
first, coupled with trousers 中褲 or skirt 中裙 .
Some robes require a Zhongdan 中單 robe to be
worn.
Underwear covering the front abdomen existed for
both male and female, and are usually rectangular
in shape.
Interestingly, Mongol and Manchu period Chinese
underwear are diamond-shaped

24.

HOW TO WEAR HANFU?
• Tie sashes together in a live knot (eg.
Butterfly knot)
• Left side knots first, then right side
• Skirts: Long sashes mean wrapping around
waist before tying them up.
• Trousers: Press and fold extra
parts of trousers around hips,
roll the head up by a layer,
then tie them up towards the
centre.

25.

WANT TO KNOW MORE?
Wikipedia, Google it up!
Keywords: “Han Chinese Clothing”, “Hanfu Movement”
Search “Hanfu” on Facebook!
Learn how to make Hanfu, at our website:
http://torguqin.wordpress.com
(Chinese) Search “ 漢服” ( 汉服 ) on
tieba.baidu.com
http://hanminzu.com

26.

REMEMBER THAT…
Hanfu is beautiful, and Hanfu is cool!
but not all Chinese remember it: Remind them
what it is, and spread the word!
Hanfu is not “ancient”: It is modern and
it is VERY hip! In fact, it is the future.
Hanfu is diverse: It is not a messy
collection of all clothing worn by Chinese
people in history, but a consummation of
Chinese creativity and identity.
Wearing Hanfu is not just for fun:
It reminds us of our heritage, and be
responsible to society and the world.
Whatever the occasion, there is a right
type of Hanfu for it. Know what to wear!

27.

THANK YOU FOR WATCHING!
Hope to see you out in Hanfu soon.
Prepared by Toronto Guqin Society, (CC BY-NCND) 2011

28.

Rest your eyes, think, write…
Or enjoy the pleasure of doing nothing.
BREAK TIME
中場休息

29.

“HANISM”
“ 漢本位主義”
+
“Han departmental thought , or Han cultural departmentalism, or simply
Hanism, is an ideology based on the interests of the Han race or ethnic group.
The Han are considered to be the foundation of China; Han culture is the basis of
Chinese culture. Hans should develop self-respect, confidence, and affirmation
towards the value of Han culture, while proactively absorbing the virtues of other
cultures to enrich its own.”
漢本位思想 或稱漢文化本位主義 簡稱漢本位 是一種以漢族為本位的民族主義思想 認為
漢族為中國的根本 漢文化為中國文化之代表。主張漢族人應建立對傳統漢文化的自尊、自
信 肯定漢文化的價值 同時積極吸收外族文化的優點 以豐富漢文化的內涵。 -- ZH
Wikipedia
+ Not xenophobia or chauvinism
並非排他主義 , 沙文主義
+ Rejects 反對 :
– “Han Chauvinism” concept
” 大漢族 / 漢沙文主義”說法
– “Pan-Zhonghua-ism” (‘Tartar’ infusionism)
“ 大 / 泛中華主義” 說法 (‘ 韃系’ 溶和論 )
Foreign conquest as ‘integration’
外族入侵作為’融合‘論
– Modernization = Westernization 現代化 = 西化
Post-colonialism/de-colonial intentions? 後殖民主義 / 去殖民化的意圖

30.

THE ACTION, AND THE PROBLEM
行動和阻力
+ Popular support arose online and in Chinese
cities since 2006
支持者從 2006 在網絡和大城市裡開始行動
+ Problem of (mis)Representation
媒體代表與”被代表”的問題
– Smearing: Dangerous idea
各種抹黑 : 一個危險的思想
– Debate of race/nation/”Han Chauvinism”
種族 / 國族 /” 大漢族主義” 大碰撞
“Hanfu” lovers
eg. 【湖北武汉 楚天都市报】 " 汉服 " 妹子行汉服婚礼 解缨结发
“Time travellers”
eg. 【湖北武汉 荆楚网】武汉现 " 穿越哥 " 着汉服持汉剑去上课
+ Resorting to violence:
訴諸暴力 :
– Verbal, 語言
– Psychological, 心理
– Physical, 武力
+ Antagonist reimagined: “Later Qing”
從新構想的反派 : ” 後清”現象
– “Vanquish Qing and Restore Ming” relevant again
in new contexts
” 反清復明” 重拾現代新意義

31.

A NEW CITIZEN MOVEMENT: ASPIRATIONS
一個新民的運動 : 復興的愿想
+ Xishan Qinkuang 溪山琴况 , Hanfu Bar administrator (1976-2006)
+ “Hanfu should be “new-citizen”, as it is itself the product of
spiritual independence. It should create a group of people with
increasing spirit of independence and critical thinking.
· 汉服应“新民” 它本身即是精神独立的产物 它应该重塑一群更加拥有独
立精神和自主思考能力的人。
+ …, it should create a group of citizens with world-class confidence
and acceptance.
· 汉服应“新民” 它应该塑造一群拥有世界级文化大国气度和自信的国民。
+ …, it should support grassroots power with mighty force, to
actualize an unprecedented reawakening of civilization.
汉服应“新民” 它应该撑起强势崛起的民间力量 实现中国前所未有的民间
的文明觉醒。
+ From nationalism to global awareness: Towards a peaceful future
從漢網民族主義到全球化的認知 : 期望和平的未來展望

32.

DIFFERENT PLACES, DIFFERENT ISSUES:
REGIONAL CASE STUDIES
家家難念的經 : 幾個地區的個案調查
+ Measure of “success”?
成功的標準 ?
+ Access of financial and cultural
resources
相差於金錢與文化資本
– Shanghai, Kunming: 上海 , 昆明
Incorporated associations
社團法人化
– Guangzhou, Beijing: 廣州 , 北京
Grassroots democracy
草根民主組織
– Toronto 多倫多 :
Inter-organizational co-operative 多
組織合作式
– Malaysia 馬來西亞 :
Integrated organization
統合式組織

33.

CONNECTIONS BEYOND GEOGRAPHY
超越地理的關係
+ More than just liking a clothing: a lifestyle
不只是喜歡服裝 一種生活方式
– Guqin & “New Classical Style”
古琴與“新古典風格”
– Wushu and Martial Arts 武術
– Workplaces 工作場所
– Government initiatives
International venues
Xuzhou
Xi’an
Shanghai Expo ‘09

34.

SUMMARY
小結
+ Hanfu movement: material extension of nationalism
漢服運動 民族主義的物質體現
– Discourse fight: rebuilding vocabulary & concept of
contemporary ethnic dress
話語鬥爭 重建當代民族服飾詞彙和概念
– Nationalism to “New citizen” universalism:
A dialogue of global values
民族主義與 21 世紀“新民”普世價值 一個全球價值觀的對話
+ From ideology to material: Away from politics
從意識形態走向物質 從政治逐漸遠離
– Establishing trends, fads, and fashion
建立趨勢 潮流 時尚
– Establishing chains of relevant interests and industries
構建有關生活方式和產業鏈

35.

Coming up next week 下週預告 :
If success of the Hanfu Movement depends
on ‘acceptance and openness’ of the society it is in…
如果漢服運動的成功是基於它所在社會的‘開放接受性’…
WHY DID THE HANFU MOVEMENT BEGIN
AND THRIVE IN THE P.R.C., BUT FAILS TO
PERSIST IN THE OPEN CHINESE DIASPORA?
為什麼漢服運動在中國內地發祥
及成長 , 而在更“開放”的海外
華僑社區中不能堅持

36.

Stay tuned…
NEXT LECTURE:
CURRENT CHALLENGES, POTENTIAL PITFALLS, AND
DISPUTES OF THE HANFU MOVEMENT
第二講
漢服運動現今的挑戰 盲點 與爭議